Yes, yes, I know I promised to write more regularly, but the last month has been busy! Besides trying to identify new tech vendors for Women’s Web, working on some ideas to generate revenue and keep up on the content, I also managed to squeeze time out for 2 day trips - to Vedanthangal bird sanctuary and Pulicat lake, two excellent bird-watching sites within easy distance of Chennai.
With the mercury already beginning to rise, we had to go soon, since the migratory birds that assemble at these places in large numbers, will soon start the return trip to colder lands. Vedanthangal is pretty much geared for tourists, with a well-maintained path from which one can see the barringtonia mangroves and lake which support all those birds.
Pulicat lake is entirely another story. I hear that the southern part of the lake, which is in Tamil Nadu, has some sort of an island with a snack bar and a children’s play area and hence suitable for a family picnic. The larger northern part of Pulicat, in Andhra Pradesh, which we were told has better bird-sightings, looks like a Martian landscape on the edge of a small, perfectly ordinary south Indian town (Sullurpet). With the lake bed somewhat dry or marshy in places at this time of the year, it has an otherworldly feel to it. Nor are there any ‘hotels’, chai-shops, ice-cream vendors, cotton-candy carts or anything else at all. Not too many people either, for that matter - except a few fishermen at the water’s edge and the occasional vehicle on the road, on its way to the Sriharikota township that lies at the other end of the road to Sullurpet.

Note, I am not complaining. If anything, the isolation of the place is splendid and unusual in an over-crowded country like ours. At one point, we kept going on this village road off the main road from Sullurpet, and we must have travelled for at least 3 kilometres without seeing a soul, with just cracked earth and occasional swamp all around us, and endless, endless sky above. In the shimmering heat, it was easy to imagine oneself as an intrepid explorer navigating the Sahara. Seriously though, for a moment I felt as if my heart would burst with a sudden awareness of the beauty and immensity of this planet we call home.
As for the bird-watching - given that we are pretty new to it and not too knowledgeable, we had a wonderful time. We sighted at least 20 different species, with around 15 that we could identify - among them, the spot-billed pelican, a pond heron with lovely fluorescent green legs below its dull plumage, painted storks, open-billed storks, the black drongo, a highly comical looking purple moorhen, black-winged stilts, egrets and many types of ducks and geese.

Nelapattu sanctuary, a few kilometres away from Sullurpet is worth a visit too, though fairly similiar to Vedanthangal and with the advantage of a pretty good information centre that also has a good, slim handbook that is helpful in identifying the birds of the region. If you are new to bird-watching, go there first and pick up this booklet before you head to Pulicat.
As for me, I will be going back definitely - perhaps during the monsoons when the waters fill up and more wader species abound, but perhaps just to enjoy the remoteness and silence.
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