Apu’s World

Recently, a few friends have been asking us for tips on travelling to Europe on a budget, and doing it independently. This is perhaps because most Indians still prefer to travel abroad as part of a group (less planning and hassle, assurance of Indian food etc) - a couple of years ago, the husband and I visited the UK, France and the Netherlands by ourselves, and therefore have a bit of a reputation as “adventurous” travellers!

Be that as it may, one of the issues with travelling independently is that unlike an “all-inclusive” tour group where you have a fair idea of the cost, here you must figure out on your own how to stick to your budget. With the Indian rupee stretching very little in these parts, it is easy to overshoot your budget and end up breaking the bank.

Since June-August is the biggest season in most of Europe, it’s a good idea to start planning now if you want to visit any European country this year. Besides the well-known tips such as using Eurail passes for extensive travelling and eating at roadside cafes rather than restaurants, here are some suggestions for the budget-conscious Indian traveller, based on my experience.

Rather than focusing purely on how to skimp, these are ideas to have fun while saving money.

Edge of season. The European summer itself is a little later than ours, and many local people tend to take their vacations in June-July. But, there is no reason why you shouldn’t travel a little earlier, or later. Travelling in end April, for instance, will mean that you may catch a bit of leftover winter - balmy evenings and nights, but nothing that the average Indian can’t handle. Prices, in particular, air and rail fares tend to be cheaper, and you get better deals on hotel accommodation from owners wanting to fill up inventory.

Go rural. Most Indian tourists run through a “must-do” list of large European cities - London, Paris, Rome, Venice, Vienna, Zurich, Amsterdam and so on. When one is spending a tidy amount on air travel, it is indeed tempting to do all the ‘big sights’. But, these are also the most expensive places in terms of accommodation, food and entry tickets to monuments. Instead, pick a maximum of 2-3 countries for a 3 week tour and plumb for depth - most European countries are so small (by our standards) that you can easily visit, say, Paris and then dash off for a few days to Bordeaux or Dijon. You get a completely different view of the country by visiting rural areas, not to mention the huge difference in prices.

To give you an idea, a tiny double room in any of the central eight arrondisements of Paris, with complementary breakfast will not cost you anything less than 80 euros per night; in contrast, in Riquewihr village in the Alsace region of France, the princely sum of 55 euros netted us a handsome bedroom, a private sitting room and a beautiful private patio in which to have our complementary breakfast. Saving this amount of money on accomodation also meant that we could sample the local food a lot more in Alsace and even treat ourselves one night at a comfortable restaurant. (And believe me, when you’ve been living on baguettes and cheese, you will want that occasional treat).

In rural areas, people also have more time to stop and chat, there are more enchanting views than in the cities and no shortage of things to do - most European small towns have their own resident castle/tower/ old church/museum, besides specialties such as wine-making, a special style of pottery and so on. For the children, there is the added fun of more open spaces, or perhaps a pony ride or even a ball game in a local park. Coastal villages have the added fun of beautiful beaches, though they do usually tend to be more expensive than inland ones.

Do a picnic. Eating in large European cities is expensive. No getting around it. If you don’t want to eat at a McDonald’s or Burger King (and we didn’t), expect to pay anything from up 7 pounds in a city like London. Add the price of water and 15-20 pounds for every meal for 2 people adds up to a lot in the course of 2-3 weeks. And these are cafe/pub prices, not even restaurant prices, which would be even steeper. If you don’t want boring chain restaurant food and the cafe prices are getting to you, what’s to do?

One option is to pack yourself a picnic lunch occasionally. The lunch itself could be basic - visit the supermarket the evening before and pack up a loaf of bread with cheese or some wraps and filling (you get a lot of these options at reasonable prices). Perhaps add in a little fruit or some flavoured yoghurt.

Now the interesting bit - figure out your route for the day and then pick a picturesque location for lunch. Wouldn’t it be nice to enjoy your simple meal watching the ducks at St. James Park or in the beautifully maintained formal gardens at the Tuileries after a tiring visit to the Louvre? A little planning can make it so much more enjoyable, all for under 10-12 euros (9-11 pounds) for 2 people.

Find out what “local” is. Like I said earlier, food is a big expense while travelling in Europe. If you’re the sort of person who wants to try local food, the price can be a deterrent. But, local food can be many different things. Because of their colonial history, many European countries have a tradition of good food from other places. In the UK, this would be Indian food - in France, food from the “Indo-China” regions, in the Netherlands - Indonesian. In Germany, I believe there is a fairly strong presence of Turkish restaurants. Many of these are also now local food, and indeed, you see a lot of locals eating at these places, often in non-touristy locations. When one is craving something hot and spicy, a Vietnamese meal from a small cafe can be the perfect option - large portions, filling and reasonably priced. This is particularly important for Indians, since our foods tend to be gravy based and we soon tire of standard European options.

Check for free events. The really popular shows, for instance at the Lido or Moulin Rouge in Paris, come at astronomical prices - often 75 euros upwards! If you can’t afford these (and we couldn’t), don’t despair - check online for free events during your visit or with local (usually free) city guides. These may not be as famous, but can be plenty fun in their own way. Places like London’s well-known Covent Garden offer plenty of live entertainment at very reasonable prices or even on a pay-what-you-like basis.

Put together your own walk. Most large cities offer guided walks, especially through historical districts. IMO, these are actually worth the fee, since they come with knowledgeable guides. However, if you are the sort who likes planning, why not put together your own walk? Considering the amount of information there is online, all you need is a good map and some back-stories of the places you plan to visit en-route.

Now, for some more ‘functional’ but useful tips.

Drink tap water. In most cities, it’s good enough, but if in doubt, check with the concierge at your hotel. Fill a bottle or two each morning before you set out. Bottled water is ridiculously expensive.

Eat a good breakfast. Most hotels and B&Bs include the breakfast in your room rate, so make good use of it. Eat a filling breakfast so that you can get by on a light, snacky lunch. This also ensures that you are not too sleepy in the afternoon.

Check the budget airlines. While rail travel from one city/country to another usually gives you the best views, rail is not always cheaper. Airlines like Ryanair and Easyjet sometimes offer crazily low prices. The hitch? Check out if the airports you are landing at (smaller ones, usually) have bus/rail connectivity to the town you are heading for, especially at early morning/late night. Taxi fares can really make a big dent in that budget.

Weather essentials. If you anticipate rain/cold weather, make sure you carry a collapsible umbrella/jacket/ woollen socks/mittens. Having to buy these abroad can be expensive. Ditto sunscreen for warm weather.

One advice I would give anyone travelling to Europe is to start thinking in Euros well ahead. Plan your budget in Euros, not rupees. So, if what you can spend is Rs.10,000 a day, before the trip, fix this amount - 160 euros per day; thereon, stop thinking of the euro-rupee conversion. If all your expenses fall under 160 euros a day, you’re doing good. This helps you avoid sticker-price shock (OMG! 10 euros for a meal! That’s more than Rs. 600!) and plan better. It also helps you avoid constantly thinking of how much you’re spending and how much cheaper it would be back home.

After all, you’re in Europe for a reason, and that is to enjoy yourself. So, fix your budget in Euros, use the many tips available in this article and elsewhere - spend wisely, and don’t get obsessed with saving money.

apu Travel Tales