Apu’s World

I’ve finally found my spiritual home!

More prosaically - I got back last night from a wonderful, relaxing, refreshing trip to the Nilgiris. We are usually suckers for homestays and smaller places to stay in, but this time, we decided to stay at this resort, Kurumba Village - about 10-12 kms before you reach Coonoor on the Mettupalayam to Ooty road. We landed up on Fri morning, which meant we were the earliest guests; so we got the most secluded cottage on the property with the best view - spice plantation to the left and the mountains to our front and right.

I am not usually too keen on resorts because they feel impersonal, and one can’t predict if the service is going to be good or just passable. The Kurumba Village has got it absolutely right though - besides a very comfortable room, a beautiful property and a really well maintained pool, it was so nice to meet their genuinely cheerful and helpful staff - and not just a front desk person who is trained to do that, but everyone from the cleaners to the kitchen staff were such nice folks. This place has my vote if you ever go to this part of the world.

This has been one of the most relaxing vacations I’ve ever taken. One reason being that cell phones didn’t work there and we hadn’t taken a camera. Which meant, no interruptions, no taking away from the moment to record it. Just sitting out on the balcony watching the mountains, the green and the many avian visitors that we unfortunately couldn’t watch too closely, having forgotten our binoculars. We did get to see the Malabar squirrel though.

We took a short trip to Coonoor and the sheer ugliness of the place as it came into view took my breath away. Rectangular buildings in every colour cheek and jowl, overhanging electricity lines everywhere, hoardings, traffic - it was unbelievable that this could be a tourist place. Thankfully, as we passed the municipal bus stand area (which is what one sees first), some of the ugliness subsided and the character of Coonoor as a British-built old town is more visible. Upper Coonoor is still quiet and beautiful, with leafy lanes and little traffic. If you do want to stay in Coonoor town itself, make sure you don’t choose a hotel in the bus stand area.

Worthwhile visits in Coonoor include the Sims Park (a fixture on the tourist trail, and deservedly) and the All Saints Church, a beautiful 150 year old church that’s been well maintained and feels just as an old church should, with weeping willows all around the churchyard and its very own shaggy, lazy dog sunning itself.

I know there can be ‘withdrawal symptoms’ post a great vacation, but this time, I enjoyed the mountains so much that I really feel like I’ve left my true home behind. On our return, we found that sparrows have been busy building a nest in our bathroom, since we’d left the window open. Maybe that’s a sign that we’re no longer wanted here!

apu Travel Tales